Edible plants and herbs

You should start by drawing up a list of edible herbs, roots, berries and other plants in your vicinity. Go out and study the different vegetation in your local area; this is a good way to develop the skills of observation and recognition you might need in order to survive an emergency. A good working familiarity with the local vegetation will come in handy if you ever need to survive with nothing but a pocket-knife. There are many plants you can eat raw but beware because there are many plants out there that are poisonous. Plants that can be useful should be identified and jotted down in the note-book and you should do this as frequently as your schedule allows you. This is a good experience for you and your family to engage in because it teaches everyone the rules of nature and at the same time, enables you and your group to bond better.

Universal Edibility Test

This is a test designed by the U.S. Armed Forces and it describes the way to test plants for edibility by trying out different portions at a time for allergy reactions or poisons. There is no general way to know by looking at a plant if it is edible or not, the plant or plant parts need to be tested. This is done in stages where you try out different portions until you determine that they are safe or not. Do not try this with mushrooms unless you are an expert mushroom picker. Never eat berries that you are unfamiliar with. Colouring at times is nature´s warning system for protecting creatures from poisons, but it is not infallible. In this matter, careful preparation and good foreknowledge is the best advice.

Putting oneself in the situation to harvest a trophy Bull Moose is no easy feat, and for those who really put in the effort and succeed, the reward is an indescribable sense of achievement, and of course bragging rights, known only by those with above average perseverance and dedication, and maybe a little luck. Knowing how to hunt this magnificent animal is only a part of this challenge. A key in bagging such a moose also lies in knowing what characteristics to look for in determining a quality bull. It’s important here to be selective but not over-selective. This guide will go over the basics in assessing a Bull Moose (More moose facts moosecam.com)in the field, and will hopefully give you the ability to determine whether or not a bull meets your predetermined expectations and is truly worthy of being called a trophy!

There are five antler features to consider when judging a bull. Moose antlers are scored based on a certain set characteristics. These characteristics are measured in inches and the final tally of these inches is what determines whether or not a moose will make it into the record books. We will be examining and discussing Shiras Moose just for the sake of explanations. The same measuring and scoring methods here apply to larger species of moose; however, the minimum entry scores will be higher. The minimum Boone and Crockett score for a Shiras Moose is 140 inches. To be on the safe side, look for a score of at least 150 total inches when judging a bull in the field. This will allow for any slight deductions that may occur in the overall score, or any antler shrinkage that may occur during the mandatory 60 day drying period. Deductions are discussed later. For now, let’s take a look at the 5 antler characteristics to assess when judging a Shiras bull:

1. Antler Width
2. Length of Palm or Paddles
3. Width of Palm or Paddle
4. Number of Points
5. Circumference of antler bases

Antler Width

Antler width is the first thing to look for in a Bull Moose. It is usually the first real noticeable feature of a bull, and is almost always the first topic of any conversation when discussing a successful hunting trip. For starters, look for a bull that is at least 40 inches wide. This is a good base number because antler spreads bigger than this typically should make the minimum entry score of 140 inches, and with spreads smaller, so are the chances of the bull being trophy. Antler width is not usually the most valuable feature in scored inches, but, as stated earlier, it is most often the first characteristic to be evaluated; which is why it is first on this list.

Length of Palms

The second antler characteristic to be aware of is the length of a bull’s paddles. Here is typically where a bull will acquire his highest numbers in the scoring system, provided certain antler configurations are taken into account. It is critical to start out by making sure that the bull has at least 2 brow tines on each side. Some bulls will only have a single, spiked brow tine. Because of the way antlers are scored, this will reduce the overall score dramatically; diminishing any chance that a bull will meet the 140 mark in most instances. The reason for this is that moose paddles are measure from the front-most point of the palm between two antler tines to the back-most point between two antler tines. To get a better understanding here, refer to the two images below. Note that antler length is actually measured on the underside of the antler palm. In most cases, antler palms are curved or cupped in shape from back to front. By measuring the underneath side of the palm, the absolute greatest antler length is measured.

The dark line represents the point-to-point measurement of each antler, A and B, which would occur on the underside of the antler palm. If we assume that the antler in figure A has only 1 brow tine, then the next point between two antler tines puts the official measurement as shown in figure A. By contrast, the antler in figure B has 2 brow tines. As you can see, the line of measurement is extended several inches to the next front-most point, which is between the brow tines.

After determining that a bull has sufficient brow tines, look to see that the palms have good length. A good number for length of the paddles is 30 inches, or 2 ½ feet. Because most antlers tend to be curved or cupped slightly, look for palms that appear to be at least 24 inches long when field judging a bull. It is probably safe to assume that 4 to 6 inches will be added to the estimated length when this cupped shape is accounted for during official measuring.

Width of Palms

The next antler feature to evaluate is the width of the palms. This is where a lot of Shiras Bulls are lacking. It is the webbed, broad, paddle-shaped antlers that make moose so unique and different from other members of the deer family, and with a narrow palm configuration, antlers can be significantly underrepresented. Often times a bull will possess a wide antler spread, but will possess very narrow palms. In such cases, the bull may make up for his lack of palm width with a wider than normal spread, as far as total inches are concerned, but narrow palm width will really make the antlers look less impressive than they are. Now, with that said, you should look for palms that are about 8 inches wide and larger. Bulls with less than 8 inches tend to start looking very thin.

Number of Points

A desirable characteristic that most moose hunters seek is points; lots of points. Each point on a moose’s antlers counts as an addition inch in over all score, so the more the better. Bull Moose that have distinct points starting at the brow tines and continuing on around the outside edge of the palms, all the way to the back of the palms are most sought-after. In a lot of bulls, points protruding off the palms will stop halfway around the palm leaving the back half of the palms with a rounded or wavy edge configuration. This not only reduces overall score in a trophy but is also not as attractive as antlers with points all the way around from front to back. A good number of points on a Shiras Bull is 10 points. Most mature bulls will have at least 7 or 8 at least.

Circumference of Bases

Lastly is the circumference in the bases of the antlers. This measurement takes into account a bull’s antler mass. This typically is very hard to judge and does vary enough to even really waste your time in trying to determine it in the field. Typically, a Shiras Bull will have anywhere from 5 to 8 inches of mass on each antler. It is probably safe to just assume 7 inches no matter what; as it is not going to make much of a difference.

So what is the overall score of a Shiras Bull with these suggested minimum measurements? Well, here is a breakdown:

Antler Width: 40 Inches

Total: Adding the totals from the right and left antler and total spread we get a final score of: 150 inches. This assumes that our moose is perfectly symmetrical and therefore has no deductions.

Deductions

A deduction is simply the difference, in inches, between left and right antler measurements, as well as abnormal points. It is a way of accounting for the imperfections in antlers that deviate from the ideal (perfectly symmetrical) antler configuration. This ensures that moose possessing undesirable characteristics do not receive higher marks than those with more desirable attributes. When deductions are taken into consideration, field judging a bull becomes slightly more difficult. So, now assume that a moose has the following measurements:

Antler Width: 40 Inches

Total: Add the left and right antlers along with the antler spread once again and then deduct the total “Difference” of 4 inches. In doing so, we come up with a score of 146 inches.

In this example, our moose scored lower but still surpassed the 140 inch mark. This is why it is safer to aim for a score of 150 inches. Moose tend to be very symmetrical animals and for the most part, do not have total deductions of more than 10 inches in bulls with more than 1 brow tine on each side. This is not to say that it is impossible, just unlikely if the bull is judged to be reasonably symmetrical in the field.

The challenge that comes with being extremely selective in deciding what animal to harvest.

Many times finding water may prove difficult. obviously this can be a problem in the desert. Also the oceans can present a difficult time supplying fresh water as well. Just because water is in abundance does not mean it is consumable.

Streams and lakes are not generally a problem, If it is available disinfect it and drink it. When in hilly areas look in the valleys between the hills. The larger the hills the larger the watershed will be. You might have to dig a hole in the lowest area available to locate water. Dry creek beds can also be a source , as well as rock depressions, When looking in dry creek beds dig into the bank with the direction of water flow as low as possible and let water seep into hole.

In desert or mountain areas that have large rocks depressions. The rocks will sometimes act as cache basins. Always look in these spots.

You must keep in mind, water never has been crystal clear and pure. Any and all water in the wild areas of the world have always been contaminated with micro organisms. Only in the fantasy world of Hollywood and television commercials has pure water existed. The one possible exception would be subterranean spring water. Impure water has been responsible for killing millions of people due to diseases like Cholera and Typhoid, These are deadly threats to life and have existed in the water in past years..Even today in the computer age people should still Consider all water suspect. Meaning unless it comes from a known pure source it should be considered unsafe and contaminated unless treated. Rain water is an exception rain water is nothing more than evaporated and condensed water. If captured in a clean container it may be consumed as is. Drinking salt water must be avoided, Salt water puts a heavy strain on the kidneys and will cause them to eventually stop functioning. The result of this is death.

Regardless how overpowering your thirst may be. Do Not drink impure water. If you do, Chances are disaster will quickly follow. This is a problem you do not want in a survival situation, Waterborne diseases are dangerous and may include Typhoid, Cholera, or Dysentery and many types of bacteria or cysts.

Water may be treated with various methods to render it safe to drink. Boiling is always a safe bet, There are also chemical methods of treatment that are also safe. Iodine based disinfectants are easy to carry, long lasting and do a good job.

Only the female mosquito bites, the male is content to live on the juice of trees and plants. The female is on a life long quest for blood. She needs this protein for egg production. Unfortunately in her quest for blood she may bite a sick person or animal and transfer diseases from one host to another. Once a mosquito is infected with a disease it will last the duration of her life. These diseases are no trivial thing, they include West Nile disease, yellow fever, encephalitis and approximately 70 additional others types of disease.

Mosquito’s like water; stagnant water is a prime breeding area. They thrive in the decay of brush and grasses. Empty or eliminate any areas of standing water, this will help reduce the population. There are two classifications of mosquitoes. The Anopheline and the Culicine. It is the Anopheline type, which is the malaria carrier. The Culicine type, which also includes the common house mosquito, and the yellow fever carrier. Both types of mosquito can present serious health issues.

The female may live from a week to 30 days or more. In this period of time she will lay several batches of eggs. Ranging in quantity from 50 to in excess of 200. It doesn’t take a rocket scientist long to determine this can turn into a population explosion rather quickly. Birds, bats, dragonflies are all mosquito predators. Without them we would soon have a very serious problem.

The tiny mosquito is well armed to hunt its prey. They see in a different light spectrum than we do, They are extremely sensitive to carbon dioxide and lactic acid. They seem to prefer dark colors and blues the best. Each time you exhale a breath, you surround yourself with carbon dioxide. To the mosquito its as though you are ringing the dinner bell. Also they zoom in on lactic acid. Sugar products when mixed with saliva create lactic acid. Eating sweets is like waving a red flag. When you exercise or stretch and strain your muscles also create lactic acid. This is a normal function, but to the mosquito it’s a sure-fire way to locate a good meal. The only defense against them without any repellants is to lock yourself away or to cease living. I find neither of the choices very appealing.

Many years ago, a product was developed to repel these small bloodsuckers. It has been used worldwide for many years. There are people that will not or cannot use this product, yet to this day it seems to offer the best defense. The name of this product is “N.N-diethyl-metatoluamide” or commonly called “DEET”.

There are many debates over the concentrations of DEET and what percentages work the best. It seems that 100% is no more effective than 17% as far as repelling goes, although the time frame between applications is much longer with the higher percentages. One company in particular has figured out a time release formula. This formula works very well. The US military forces are currently using this formula. TC.

From this baseline we are able to determine directions with more than a fair degree of accuracy and consistency. There are several ways to determine cardinal directions by using the sun and shadow methods. But, I shall only give single example in this article. As we have been taught for many generations, the sun rises somewhat in the east and sets somewhat in the west. It also crosses the southern sky. By using this easterly and westerly rise and setting of the sun, we are able to use shadows cast by the sun to build a crude but accurate compass of sorts.

To build a compass using this method, you will need only a few items and patience. A short straight stick, several small stones, a smooth area and a sun that is bright enough to cast a strong shadow.

To build a shadow stick compass such as shown in photos, you will need only the items listed below and patience.

1. A short straight stick.

2. Several small stones.

3. A smooth area, and a sun bright enough to cast a strong shadow.

First, you will need a straight stick approximately 12 inches long. push this stick into the ground so it is in an upright position. Hopefully the sun will be bright enough that it will cast a strong and distinct shadow. Next set a small rock on the ground at the end of the shadow. Every half hour or so, again you will place a different stone at the end of the shadow. As the sun moves a cross the southern sky the end of the shadow will be at a new location on the ground. After you have set several rocks in place, you will notice they will be in somewhat of a straight line. This line of rocks will be indicative of your east / west line. If you stand with your left foot on the first shadow that is cast, and your right foot on the last shadow cast, you will be facing a northerly direction. And your back will be facing a southerly direction. From this basic north south position you will find it easy to determine the other directions. I recommend showing this little trick to your children, they will love it, and as a bonus it may prove useful one day.

The above photos show the baking of bread being baked on a stick. When baking bread in this manner it will prove to be easier, if a forked stick is driven into ground and the baking stick is set in the fork. This method will allow easy rotation of the bread.This also provides bread that is more uniformly cooked. I have a tendency to over cook most foods, including my breads. If bread becomes a bit dark, simply scrape off the over cooked areas. It is possible to cook this bread into a golden brown and tasty treat. your baking stick should be made of hardwood and dry. Avoid resinous woods as they will impart an undesirable taste to bread

These photos show ash cakes being set directly onto the hot coals for cooking. This method will always burn the outer layer of the bread. This is not a problem for some people. The ash will wipe off the bread and the parts that become burnt can be scraped or cut away. Or you can simply break open and eat the bread inside. I like these cakes. Always, use only hardwoods for the fire and let burn to a bed of coals. By adding sugar and, or a touch of cinnamon the bread is a special treat. Kids love the taste of this bread.

As you can see in these photos, the bread is being cooked on aluminum foil and on a hardwood slab. both methods tend to keep ash and burning to a minimum. The bread likes to stick to the aluminum but I have discovered that a thin layer of flour seems to help and minimizes sticking. I must again stress, use only hardwoods. A flat thin rock that has a fire built on it is also a great cooking platform.The rock will hold heat a very long time. Build a large fire. Find a clean flat rock and set the rock on the fire. Place hardwood onto the top of rock. The wood will burn and heat the rock. Brush coals to the side, so a clean area is exposed in center of rock and place bread dough on rock. let bake until firm, then rotate often for even baking. I have baked potatoes in the same fashion.

The above photos show three different types of snowshoes. The far left is the more traditional wood and rawhide lace. These shoes are considered by many to be the best and the most attractive. Middle photo shows a pair of U.S.military magnesium framed snowshoes. These snowshoes have plastic coated stainless steel cable for lacing. I like these shoes. The far right are aluminum tube frames with synthetic decks. These snowshoes are very lightweight and offer great strength and floatation. This is pretty much the current trend and style being manufactured today. Many different manufactures offer similar models. Prices vary according to bindings, materials and size.

This set of shoes are constructed with a solid deck being molded around aluminum tubing. This type of shoe is a little heavier but extremely strong. They also come in varying sizes. This type of shoe is also becoming more popular each year. s. This set happens to be a little shorter than the top right pair. Never wear a shoe that is larger than what is needed. Always keeping in mind that a backpack or any equipment other than yourself will require a larger shoe. On the far right are the small Swiss army snowshoes. These work well with limited weight and on hard packed snow. And they are very cost effective, generally under twenty dollars a pair. snowshoes are worthless unless they can be fastened firmly to the foot. It seems every manufacture claims to have the best bindings. I have used many different bindings, The all seem to work pretty well. The new synthetic bindings are easily fastened even while wearing gloves or mittens. A note on wooden and rawhide snowshoes is in order. When winter ends and it is time to retire your snowshoes until the next year. Consider giving the a thorough cleaning and coat them with 2 layers of shellac or clear varnish. I have used the new polyurethane coating with success.

There are many good books on the market that offer substantial information concerning this winter sport. Read a few. They all offer good tips. If you have never walked on snowshoes then by all means try the sport. It is very hard work, but the rewards of going into places no other can with them is a lot of fun. The winter sights are awesome. Try it, you may just love it.

Steps to cook in a baggie.

If a container of some sort is available to support your baggie when it is full of water then by all means use it. If none are available then a hole dug in the ground offers the needed support to hold the baggie in a vertical position. The size of this hole should be only large enough to hold bag in a secure upright position. The next few steps are easy enough to follow. first locate approximately 6 to 10 golf ball size rocks, these rocks should be smooth. Wash the rocks thoroughly in clean water. This is necessary to remove any dirt or mud. Now start a hardwood fire and let the fire burn to a bed of hot coals. keep this fire strong by adding wood until you have an abundance of hot coals. Use a blow tube to direct air into fire. this will increase temperature considerably. Add your golf ball size rocks to fire and let them sit in hot coals. After 20 minutes or so, remove the rocks one at a time and add them to your water filled baggie. Use green sticks to remove rocks from fire. Cut a flat end on each stick , this will help greatly in holding rocks in place. Be sure your baggie already contains the appropriate amount of water and your chosen ingredients for your soup.

Be very careful when handling these rocks, DO NOT touch them with your hands. These rocks will be extremely hot. Under most conditions, about six of these rocks added to soup mix will normally bring solution to a boil. Be careful, as these rocks will stay hot a very long time, When you believe the rock has lost most of its cooking heat,add another, and so on. Only a few medium size rocks will bring water too a very high temperature. If you happen to have aluminum foil in your survival kit, then insert a folded piece in bottom of the baggie, this will be helpful in the prevention of holes from sharp rocks. A layer of Dandelion leaves will also perform same function. Your baggie is worthless if it becomes punctured or torn. I have used two of these freezer type plastic bags at the same time. Insert on inside of the other, add a small amount of water between the two. then fill the inner baggie with your soup mix and water. I once had some doubt as to whether this would actually work the first time I tried it. But it does work. Our minds tell us that the hot rock will destroy the thin plastic. As of yet, I have never melted or burned a hole in the baggie. Although I have punctured one. My recommendation is to use the smoothest rocks you can find. Always avoid creek bed rocks. The internal pressure from steam will cause rock to crack and many times actually explode. Rocks are pourous and will absorb water. When these rocks are heated, steam builds up internally and in many cases, causing them to explode.. Good luck on this method of food preparation. The lowly baggie may not be the best cook pot, but then again its not the worst by far.

The first item on our list will be fire. Cooking fires to be more precise. Not all types of fires can be utilized efficiently for cooking. What we need for cooking is a good bed of hot coals. In the majority of cooking cases it will be the coals and not the fire itself that should be utilized. That is, unless you are browning, toasting or reflecting the heat of the fire. Always try to use hardwoods for cooking since they burn slower and hotter than softwoods. Always avoid evergreen trees if possible. The resins in the wood will cause the fire to burn inconsistent and will often impart a bad taste to roasted foods. Always have a bed of coals large enough to cook your foods. Heat regulation is very important. A good rule of thumb are the hand and second count method. Place your hand approximately four inches above the coals and count the seconds before you have to remove your hand from the heat. This may seem like foolish thing to do. But unless you have hands of steel you won’t linger to long. The length of time you are able to hold your hand near the coals will give the approximate temperature of the heat. A simple chart is below:

1 second or less=450-500 degrees F.
2 to 3 seconds =400-450 degrees F.
4 to 5 seconds =350-400 degrees F.
6 to 8 seconds =250-350 degrees F.

There are many efficient cooking methods and all will get the job done, some are simply easier to use than others. Ash cooking for example is a very old method and works well. I must stress again, always use hardwoods for ash cooking. By simply laying food on top of the coal bed it will cook just fine. Very little if any ash will stick to the food. Besides, a little ash will not hurt you anyway..The early mountain men and pioneers would prepare dough and roll into balls or flatten. They would then lay this prepared dough directly on the hot coals. Often the outside will burn somewhat,but this does not create a problem or ruin the bread. After baking, break open the dough ball and eat the soft inner bread. If the crust is not to brown, brush off ash and eat the hard outer crust. Or dip in coffee. Everyone should try this. I have a complete article written specifically for ash cake cooking. Take a look and read.

Meats can be cooked in the same manner, the heat of the coals will sear the outside of the meat and trap the inner juices. After cooking, the ash will easily brush off the meats. This meat will be absolutely delicious. Potato’s and tubers can be buried in the coals and left to cook. They will also develop a hard outer crust while cooking. To eat, simply cut open the hard crust and eat the contents. Potatoes or tubers may also be packed in a layer of thick mud or clay and buried in a bed of hot coals then left to bake for approximately 20 minutes or longer. After cooking, break off the mud or clay shell and eat the prepared foods. Many types of foods may be prepared in this manner. In the months ahead I will describe other types of cooking methods. In the meantime, try the methods described above. You will be surprised at the delicious meals you are able to prepare using very little. Good luck.

These spoons are not only easily made but will last many years. Not to mention a possible souvenir. And perhaps a reminder of an experience that not many people have. Try to build this spoon, I believe you will find it enjoyable and very gratifying.